Carpet Installation
Buying and Installing New Carpet Tips [top]
Here are some practical steps to consider before purchasing and installing new carpet:
Talk to the Carpet Retailer/Installer
- Ask about the carpet industry's voluntary "green label" program for new carpet. According to the carpet Industry, the label tells consumers that this carpet type has been tested and passed emissions criteria. The label, however, is not a guarantee that the carpet will not cause health problems. A toll-free phone number is available on the label for updated information on the industry's program.
- Ask the retailer to unroll and air out the carpet in a well-ventilated area before installation.
- Ask for low-emitting adhesives if adhesives are needed.
- Make sure the installer follows industry installation guidelines(Residential Carpet Installation Standard, CRI-105)
Ventilate Area with Fresh Air
This will help reduce chemicals coming from carpet installation.
- Open doors and windows. Increasing the amount of fresh air In the home will reduce exposure to most chemicals released from carpet. During and after installation, use window fans and room air conditioners to exhaust fumes to the outdoors. If you have a ventilation system, be sure it is in proper working order. Operate it during installation, and keep it running for 48 to 72 hours after the new carpet is installed.
Why it's important to ventilate area after installing a new carpet...
Since 1988, the U.S. Consumer Product Satety Commission (CPSC) received over 500 complaints associated with new carpet installation. CPSC evaluated many of these complaints. The most frequently-reported symptoms were watery eyes, runny nose, burning sensation in the eyes, nose and throat, headaches, rashes, and fatigue. CPSC is currently investigating the relationship between the carpets and the reported health problems.
The complaints led CPSC to study what chemicals come from carpet and whether those chemicals could cause the health problems that consumers reported. CPSC collected carpet samples directly from the production line. Laboratory work was performed to determine the types and quantities of chemicals released from carpet cushions used under the carpet.
The Commission does not currently have evidence that specific chemical emissions coming from carpet are responsible for the health complaints associated with carpet installation. There have been reports that mice exposed to air passed over carpets showed severe health problems and, in some cases, died. At this time the cause of these health problems and the implication of these findings for human health are not known. Studies to determine the significance of these reports are in progress.
Content Provided By the DOE
Carpet Buying - What to Look For [top]
In the market for a new carpet? Be sure to check out the performance characteristics to ensure you choose a carpet that will hold up well and have a long life.
There are several things to look for, including a twist in each individual yarn. Several qualities give performance, including the density of the carpet and the amount of twist, or crimp. Density should not be confused with the height of the pile. Pile height has nothing to do with performance. Generally, the more twist in the carpet yarns, the more spring, which hides footprints. However, there is a tradeoff. Colors are more vibrant in carpets that don't have that crimped texture.
Other properties to look for are stain protection, soil protection and static resistance. Most homeowners clean their carpets about once a year, so in the interim, you want the carpet to perform as well as possible in these three areas.
The carpet industry has done some amazing things in protecting against stain, soil and static. When no carpet is completely protected, today's products are better than ever.
When purchasing a carpet, be sure and buy from a reputable dealer. Look to a quality-oriented decorating center for a good selection of custom carpets as well as better-grade pads and qualified installers. Remember that with carpet, as with many other things in life, you usually get what you pay for.
Courtesy of the Paint and Decorating Retailers Association - www.pdra.org
Carpet Industry Embraces Recycled Materials [top]
By Katherine Salant
I recently took an ecological footprint quiz and learned that it would take 21 biologically productive acres to support my lifestyle. If everyone on Earth lived like me, we would need 4.7 planets, and I was 12 percent below average for an American!
The only saving grace here is that so far most of the world has yet to achieve my middle-class American lifestyle.
But, as the economies in India, China and other developing countries take off and large numbers of their citizens begin to consume at the same rate as we Americans, the competition for scarce resources will be intense. We will all have to learn to do more with less, and the whole world will be saying renew, reuse, recycle about everything, including houses.
In the home-building arena in the United States, much progress has already been made in building houses that are more resource-efficient. Less energy is needed to heat and cool them. Many commonly used building materials are made with less waste, less water and more environmentally benign components. Some materials contain recycled material, and some materials can be recycled at the end of their useful life in a house. But manufacturers of housing components, as in other manufacturing sectors, have discovered that it's not so easy to get from here to there, from leaving a big ecological footprint to leaving a smaller one.
A classic example is the experience of the carpet industry, one of the first to wholeheartedly embrace the renew, reuse, recycling credo. It has achieved stunning success and market acceptance with some products that are made with recycled materials, but the products do not lend themselves to further recycling and most will eventually end up in a landfill. This is not such a critical issue now, but it will be in the not-so-distant future.
The carpet industry makes carpets than can be endlessly recycled, but the price is too high for these to be widely used in houses. The carpet industry is also working with other industries to develop non-carpet products that can be made with used carpet.
The biggest obstacle facing the carpet industry's efforts to recycle, and indeed one that faces any other industry that wants to use recycled materials in its products is the sale price, which is everything in a market-driven economy like ours. If the recycling process makes the product more costly than the conventional and less benign one it strives to replace, it won't be widely used.
It also goes without saying that consumers want the same quality and the same look and feel, as well as the same price. Small fibers and a quaint look are OK for recycled paper; an unbleached, coffee-colored napkin made of recycled paper at Starbuck's could be characterized as an "accessorizing plus." But few people want little specs on their walls after the paint has dried or a somewhat faded pattern on their vinyl flooring, even if it meant that fewer resources were used in the construction of their new house.
In making polyester carpet from recycled soda pop bottles - one of the carpet industry's first sallies into the recycling arena - the right price and the right look were not big issues. The carpets are made by the Calhoun, Ga.-based Mohawk Industries, one of the largest carpet manufacturers in the world. For its "PET Collection" carpet line, the company uses about 20 percent of all soda pop bottles recovered for recycling. The "food grade" quality of the plastic in the bottles is actually higher than the polyester that is ordinarily used in carpet, Frank Endrenyi of Mohawk said.
Once the polyester is made into a carpet fiber, however, it cannot be reprocessed and reused to make new carpet fibers. At this juncture, most polyester carpet will end up in a landfill at the end of its useful life.
From a recycling perspective, the carpet industry has had more recycling success with its nylon carpets. The nylon-6 fibers that are used in about half of the carpets made today are "forever renewable." They can be reprocessed and reused over and over to make nylon-6 carpet, keeping it out of a landfill.
Honeywell, a major supplier of the nylon-6 fiber used by carpet manufacturers, was so enthusiastic about the market potential for renewed nylon-6 fiber it invested $80 million in a state of the art plant in Augusta, Ga.
Unfortunately, the reclaimed nylon-6 was not cost-competitive with virgin nylon-6 and the plant closed in 2001, after less than two years of operation. Honeywell continues to produce the renewed nylon-6 in small quantities at two smaller facilities. Most of the carpet that is made with it is a more expensive commercial grade, but executives at Mohawk and Shaw Industries-the largest carpet manufacturer in the world, headquartered in Dalton, Ga.-anticipate that the renewed nylon-6 fiber carpets will eventually be a standard offering in their residential carpet lines.
Nylon carpet fiber and polyester fiber can be recycled into fiber carpet pads, another product that can be recycled over and over again. Both Shaw and Mohawk make the fiber pads.
In houses, the fiber pads are used under berber carpeting because they make the seams less visible. The fiber pads could easily be used for the rest of the house. The main reason they are not is the way they feel when walked on. The fiber pads are firm, and most consumers prefer the soft cushiony feel of bonded polyurethane pads that are made from recycled carpet pads and post-industrial scrap from furniture manufacturers. For people with chemical sensitivities, however, the fiber pads may be preferable because they emit fewer volatile organic compounds (VOCs), though both types of pads are low emitters.
Recycling the fiber only accounts for part of the carpet, however. There is still the backing to reckon with.
In some cases the backing can be recycled. For example, Shaw uses a polyolefin plastic backing that can be recycled over and over as plastic carpet backing for most of its commercial grade carpet tiles.
For the filler in its carpet tile-backing Shaw uses coal flyash instead of limestone, a non-renewable resource that has traditionally been used by carpet manufacturers. The flyash is a coal byproduct produced by coal-burning, electric-generating plants. Before adding the flyash to the backing mix, it is sorted and only the fully oxidized portion, which contains no heavy metals, is used, said Steve Bradfield of Shaw, who added that the flyash shows "great promise" for broadloom carpets and may eventually be used in residential carpeting.
The carpet industry has also been working with other industries to develop "whole carpet technologies," processes that utilize the entire carpet, both the fibers and the backing to make other products. So far, the recycled products include, among others, plastic railroad ties, construction sheeting and roof shingles. The nylon fibers have also found their way into the concrete industry. The fibers from used carpeting can be added to concrete slabs to help prevent them from cracking.
Copyright 2004-2006 Katherine Salant. Distributed by Inman News Features.
Carpeting Questions: Preparation and Installation [top]
Q. My carpet installer provided me with the measurements for my basement carpet and said I need to "allow for the pattern." The pattern of the carpet I've chosen is approximately 3/8" x 1/2". How much more carpet should I order to accommodate the pattern?
A. That is basically a pin dot pattern; 3/8" is not much. Give him three inches just in case you're measuring to the wall and not into the doorways. Remember, carpet has more waste, unless the room is exactly 12 feet wide. Avoid having a lot of seams just to save waste!
Q. We will soon be carpeting our basement floor. Do I need to seal the cement before the carpeting goes down? I have heard that especially if you have pets, it is a good idea to seal the cement. This way if the pets have an accident, the moisture stays on top of the cement, rather than soaking into it.
A. It's best to consider a better pad at this point. A solid rubber slab pad with a low absorption rate will perform better for these kinds of things.
Q. I have one question before I get started with installing my carpet: How far should the tack strip be installed from the molding? We've left the molding up off the floor by approximately half an inch, which I think is right for the thick carpet we're getting. Please specify if the answer you give is from the molding or from the wall.If someone could point me to a comprehensive carpet installation guide, that would also be useful. I've read about half a dozen but none that detailed.
A. The tack strip should be no farther then 3/8 inch from a fixed vertical surface (baseboard). If the carpet face yarn and backing are less then 3/8 inch thick, the tack strip should be the thickness of the carpet from the fixed object.
Q. I have a 5-year-old house and I'm finishing the basement. I want to put in carpet but I'm not sure what kind - meaning nylon vs. poly, oz., density, etc. I want textured carpet that will hold up well and look nice. I'm going with the blue micro-ban, 8# pad on the concrete. I don't have a moisture problem. Can anyone recommend what type of middle-of-the road carpet would do well in a basement environment?
A. Pick your price ranges and read the appearance retention warrantee section on the back of the sample. Nylon fibers last longer, and poly is easier to clean. Depending on the use of the room, go with nylon. But, it really boils down to warrantee and personal preference.
Q. I'm working on re-carpeting my Pontoon boat. What type of adhesive should I use? Should I use a roller on the carpet and if so, can they easily be rented? What type of stapler should I use to tack carpet along the perimeter?
A. Pontoon boats are a piece of cake to carpet. Remove the rails and seats and remove the aluminum molding that is screwed around the perimeter of the deck. Use outdoor carpet adhesive and have plenty ventilation, preferably outdoors, as the outdoor adhesive is highly flammable. You can rent a roller from any tool rental company.
Q. We had a carpet company come in to install a Berber carpet. When they got to the stairs, they had a problem. They said that the skirt board on one side is angled and will create gaps between the Berber and the skirt board if they lay it as is. They then explained that we'd be able to pull off the molding and straighten it out with no problem. We dutifully nodded our heads and tried to remember what they said. Now that we are trying to do it, we are a little confused as to what exactly we are trying to do and how to know when we are done. Therefore, we have a right angle and are trying to straighten out the skirt board. If we just measure it at the back of a step and get it vertically 90 degrees, is that good enough? Or do we need to measure elsewhere as well? The skirt is already covered by quarter round molding, which I removed, and I've already started trying to pull the skirt board out. If I check each step and measure it vertically, how perfect do I need to get the skirt board to make it easier for the carpet people?
A. Often times the skirt boards or stringers are nailed to the drywall and treated by carpenters as just a trim to protect the drywall. Stair building has become a lost art. If you can pry the skirting out from the drywall, you can use a square to measure the straightness of the skirting. If there is a gap between the top of the skirting and the wallboard, you can cover it with a quarter round molding.
Of course, the carpet installers can avoid all this by simply turning the sides of the carpet under, making adjustments on the carpet in and out, as they install each step. Call the carpet seller and ask about this option. They may or should charge extra for this service, but it will save you a lot of work. Rolling the sides of the carpet under to make these adjustments is an "old school" technique that made it easier to work on steps in old out-of-square homes. Give then a call and see if they will try this. If they employ a carpet geezer, it will be no problem.
As long as the width measures the same from the top of the steps to the bottom, and from the front to back of each tread, it will work. If they use tackless on the sides of the treads it will give them a little room for adjustments. Rolling the sides under is a more viable option.
Q. I am having carpet installed over my hardwoods because of a few permanent stains. I am also replacing the baseboards. My question is, should I inset the baseboards back into the hardwoods like they were previously or should I raise them up enough so the tack strip and rug can fit under the baseboard?
A. Since the baseboards are already there and it would be a big chore to remove and replace them, I would remove any shoe molding or quarter round and install carpet up to the baseboard. If you are replacing baseboards, raise them. It will give you a more finished look. When I installed baseboards on new construction, I took a few little pieces of baseboard and laid them along the wall to provide a gap the thickness of the baseboard. That way the installers had a place to tuck the edge of the carpet.
It's such a pity to have to cover hardwood flooring when it is all the rage. It seems everyone is tearing out their carpet and refinishing their hardwood. For severe stains, it is possible to do repairs. Affected boards can be pulled out and replaced by some pulled from inconspicuous areas, such as from inside the closet and under the bed. New boards would replace those. Then, the floor could be refinished. In addition, sometimes stains can be bleached to lighten and floor stained a dark color to camouflage stains. And, area rugs can hide a lot of sins. Hardwood flooring adds value to a home. Again, it is a pity to cover one of your most valuable assets.
Q. I have had a bid for some good, not too high-end carpet to be installed. I have about 90 yards, and the price spread is $2400. Why is the spread so much? I am looking at frieze carpet, and one carpet guy told me that the heavier it is, the harder it is to maintain. Another issue is pad - I always thought that the fiber pads were the best. Three sales guys have told me this also, but another guy says his rebound is the best on the market. Fiber or rebond?
A. Frieze carpets are very durable and hide footprints, dust and dirt, which makes them suitable for heavy traffic areas. They are not any more difficult to maintain than other carpets. Vacuum frequently in high-traffic areas, take care of stains immediately, and have the carpet professionally cleaned about every 12-18 months before it starts showing soiling.
Most often fiber pads are used under area rugs and rugs where there is concern about movement of carpet. Spun nylon is best. They can be made from jute, hair mixed with jute, synthetic fiber, or recycled textile fiber. 7.5 lbs per cubic ft. density is recommended for the synthetic fiber, and 12 lb density for the jute pads.
Rebond is made from of scraps of the high-density foams that are bonded together. Rebond padding comes in various thicknesses and densities. Carpet and Rug Institute (CRI) recommends that for residential use, the pad should not exceed 7/16ths inch. A 7-7.5 lb pad provides the longest wear. If you are looking for longer wear, don't go with less than 7. 6.5 lb is the minimum recommended for heavy traffic like in hallways.
How to Install Carpet [top]
By Murray Anderson
Installing your own wall to wall carpet isn't a job everybody wants to take on. It can be hard on both your knees and your back, and if you don't get it right, everybody can see where you messed up. However, installing carpet isn't "rocket science," and by using some specialized tools (available at most tool rental outlets) and being prepared to take your time, installing carpet is a job you can do yourself.
What You'll Need:
- Tackless strips
- Stapler
- Hammer
- Utility knife
- Chalk line
- Measuring tape
- Rolling pin (or rental seam roller)
- Work gloves
- Safety glasses
- Knee pads
Rental Tools:
- Knee kicker
- Power stretcher
- Seam cutter
- Seaming iron
- Seam tape
- Wall trimmer
- Strip cutter
- Seam roller
Getting Ready
Your first step is to get rid of the old carpet. Start by removing the moldings around the floor and take the door off the entrance, so you can get the old carpet out and the new carpet in easier. Give the old carpet a good vacuuming so you won't be breathing in dust, and then use a utility knife to cut the carpet into strips about 18 to 24 inches wide.
Start at one end and pull the carpet off the tackless strips and roll it up in sections. Some people feel that you can reuse the existing underlay, but in most cases it will be worn out just like the carpet, so you're better off getting rid of it as well.
Remove the existing tackless strips and make sure the floor is clean and dry. This is a good time to check your subfloor and securely fasten any floorboards that may be loose so they won't squeak under the new carpet (use 1 1/2" screws into the underlying floor joists).
Install new tackless strips around the perimeter of the room, but not in front of doorways. Leave a space of about 1/2" between the strips and the wall, and be sure the pins or tacks face towards the wall. (They're called tackless strips even though they have two or three rows or very sharp tacks, because using these "tackless strips" means you don't need to "tack" carpet down.) At corners, make sure the tackless strips are butted tightly against each other.
Laying the Underpad
Put the underpad down in strips that overlap the tackless strips. Butt the strips against each other - don't overlap them - then staple the underlay down along the inside edge of the tackless strip. Trim the excess underlay along the inside of the tackless strip and use duct tape to seal the seams.
Laying the Carpet
To install carpet properly, you need to start with a piece that overlaps the edge of the floor by 4 to 6 inches. The overlay can then be trimmed so the carpet fits properly. To cut your first section, measure the room at its longest point and add 6 inches to that measurement. Mark the back of your carpet on both edges with that measurement and join the two marks with a chalk line. Fold the carpet over on itself, and using a straight edge and a sharp utility knife, cut through the backside of your carpet. Be sure to place a piece of scrap board underneath your cut line to protect the underlying carpet.
Seams
If your room is wide enough that you're going to need another piece of carpet, follow the same process with the second piece - measure, mark and trim. Be sure the carpet pile is running the same way in both pieces, and that the carpet piece is large enough to overlap the wall by 4 to 6 inches, as well as overlapping the first piece of carpet by 4 to 6 inches. (Try to layout your carpet pieces so the seams won't be in noticeable areas, but obviously sometimes that just isn't possible.)
Where the carpet pieces will join, overlap the two pieces, and then using a utility knife or a rented seam cutter, cut through both pieces of carpet, ensuring the edges will match exactly. After cutting the carpet, center a piece of seaming tape on the floor underneath where they join, adhesive side up. Use the seaming iron to activate the adhesive (the iron goes on the tape, not on top of the carpet), and then butt the edges together and seal the seam with a rolling pin or a carpet roller.
Attaching the Carpet
Use a knee kicker to attach the carpet along one edge. A knee kicker is a solid metal tool about 18" long with "teeth" that will grip the carpet on one end, and a heavily padded "butt" on the other. Place the toothed end of the kicker about 3" from the wall and drive your knee forcefully into the padded end of the tool. This will stretch the carpet over the tackless strip where the tacks will grab it and hold it firmly in place.
A carpet stretcher will finish attaching the carpet. A carpet stretcher is similar to knee kicker, but much longer. Put one end of the carpet stretcher against the wall where the carpet is already attached and place the other end about 6 inches from the far wall. The carpet stretcher also has teeth to grip the carpet, and when you push on the activation lever, it will stretch the carpet over the tackless strip near the far wall.
Work your way around the room stretching the carpet over the tackless strips, and trim the carper near the wall with a utility knife or a wall trimmer.
Finishing Up
Using a stair tool, tuck the carpet down into the gap between the tackless strips and the wall. At the doorway, trim the carpet so the edge is centered under the closed door and install a door edge strip. Finally, cut any vent openings and install the molding on the baseboards.
That's it. Stretch your back, check to see if your knees still work, and then take some time to admire what all your hard work has accomplished.
Murray Anderson is an experienced freelance writer with articles published in both the United States and Canada. He has written on a wide range of topics, but specializes in home maintenance and how to's.
Preventing Slips and Falls in Your Home [top]
The foundation for home safety may be right underneath your feet: your carpet. Slips and falls within the home are the leading cause of injury among children and adults over 65. For families living with a grandparent or young children, reducing the risk of slips and falls is a primary concern in creating a safe home. Here are some home safety ideas from experts at the Carpet and Rug Institute:
Whether there is a spill or water is tracked in from outside, when most flooring surfaces get wet, they become slippery. Carpet provides a stable, nonslip surface. If carpet does get wet, it maintains its ability to create traction and secure footing. Slips and falls can lead to serious injury, and sometimes even death. Carpet not only reduces the likelihood that a slip will occur, it softens the impact of the fall and its softness reduces the chances of injury.
Most carpet has an additional layer of cushioning underneath, further decreasing the chance of bruising or injury. Carpet also has the added benefit of helping reduce back and leg fatigue. Nurses especially agree that carpeting helps keep their foot and backaches to a minimum.
Another way to reduce the probability of slip and fall injuries is to place rugs or mats by entrances, kitchen sinks, or areas where flooring is most likely to get wet. Rugs and mats will absorb the moisture, reducing the risk of a slip and fall injury further in the home.
Even while decorating, there are simple measures that homeowners can take to reduce the chances of tripping and falling within the home. Choose patterns that do not disguise the edge of steps, height differences and level changes. This is very helpful with "sunken" or "raised" rooms.
In rooms where handicapped or elderly individuals spend a lot of time, homeowners should avoid shag carpet or carpet with a thick pile height. These styles are more likely to get caught on walkers or shoes, causing tripping and possibly an injury. Level loop or cut pile styles or styles with low pile height, will provide all of the benefits of carpet, without the risk of tripping.
The softness and cushioning nature of carpet is ideal for family activity-whether it is the first steps of a toddler, the deliberate steps of a grandparent, the hurried steps of a busy adult or teenager, or the many steps of the homemaker.
DON'T TAKE THE FALL - Placing rugs and mats at entrances reduces the probability of a slip.
Courtesy of NAPSnet.
What You Need to Know When Carpet Shopping [top]
By Katherine Salant
When you select the floor finishes for your new house, you may decide to splurge on tile or hardwood for your kitchen and entry foyer. But for most of your living space, you'll probably conclude that carpet is the most cost-effective choice. That's the easy part. Then you have to pick one or two from a vast number of carpet squares that line the walls of the builder's sample room.
As you begin to get oriented to this dizzying array, the first thing you'll notice is that the number of color choices increases with price. Indeed, this is part of the builder's marketing strategy. Only six to ten colors are usually offered in the lowest, base carpet grade that is included in the house's base price. The carpet supplier typically sells the base grade to the builder at or below cost, and invariably it is of minimal quality. But as many as twenty-four colors may be offered in the highest upgrade category, where the builder's (and his supplier's) profit margins are greatest. Beyond color and price, there are additional but more subtle differences between carpet grades that can make one choice prudent and another extravagant.
The first thing to note on the carpet samples is the fiber type. Your builder will most likely offer nylon, polyester, and/or olefin. Of these, nylon is the most widely used and the strongest. A nylon carpet never becomes threadbare, and in this conventional sense it never wears out. But nylon will "ugly out" and look ratty if not properly maintained or if inferior padding has been installed. Nylon will also stain if the fibers are not treated with a stain-resistant product such as Dupont Stainmaster. Higher quality nylon fibers are "branded" and the carpet label will list the fibers as "100% nylon Monsanto" or "100% Dupont Masterlife." Lower quality, unbranded nylon fibers are listed simply as "100% nylon."
Polyester carpet fibers are less strong than nylon and tend to shed some, but they are more stain resistant and the colors are brighter. Polyester is also cheaper than nylon and more environmentally benign. Some or all of the polyester fiber material, depending on the manufacturer, is made from recycled plastic bottles. Image Polyester, a division of Mohawk Carpets, manufactures polyester carpet made of 100 percent recycled material. Phil Cavin, Image's national procurement officer, estimates that the firms' manufacturing activities consume about 5.5 million bottles a day. Before you buy a whole house full of polyester carpet, though, try to see a room with it. Some people find the carpet sounds odd when they walk on it and it has a different sheen because it is plastic.
Polypropylene, commonly called olefin, is the weakest of the three synthetic fibers, but this material works well when made into a looped berber-type carpet with a knobby weave. Its knobby berber texture conceals dirt, even in light colors. For this reason, olefin berber carpeting is often selected for high-use areas such as family rooms.
Next check the twist level of the individual carpet fibers. All carpet yarns are twisted together to form lengths of yarn, but the degree of twisting varies. The higher or tighter the twist, the better and generally more expensive the carpet. A twist rating refers to the number of times the fiber is twisted together in a one-inch length. With a loop-pile carpet such as a berber, the twist level is less critical because the fibers are looped in and can't unravel.
Now check the density, a measure of how tightly the fibers are attached to the carpet backing. The closer together the fibers are attached, the less wear to each individual fiber, and the longer the carpet will last. To test for density, see how easily you can move the carpet tufts to see the backing. The harder it is to see, the higher the carpet's density.
Face weight measures the number of ounces of fiber per square yard of carpet. It is a significant quality determinant, but harder to distinguish by visual inspection. The higher the face weight, the more yarn, and the better the carpet, with this caveat: A carpet with a longer fiber can have a higher face weight, because face weight simply measures the weight of all the fibers above the primary lacking. But a longer-fiber, higher-face-weight carpet can still have a low density, and it will not wear as well as a carpet of identical face weight but shorter, more numerous fibers and higher density.
To determine overall carpet quality, you need to look at face weight and density as well as the twist level. As a general rule of thumb, carpet with a twist level of 4.0 or better, a density of 3,000 to 4,000, and a face weight of 35 to 40 ounces will hold up well. For production-built houses in the middle or lower price ranges, such a carpet may be two or three upgrades above the builder's standard. For production-built houses in the upper price ranges, some builders may offer carpets with face weights that can range from 45 to as high as 70 ounces.
Durability is another important factor in selecting a carpet, but it is difficult to ascertain by visual inspection. Many carpet manufacturers assign a durability rating to each carpet style after testing it by simulating wear conditions over time. For example, Shaw Industries has a 20,000 Steps Contract Walker Test facility at its headquarters in Dalton, Georgia. The 20,000 steps, the equivalent of about three years of normal residential use, are taken by six to eight people walking in shifts for eight houses a day over a five- to seven-day period.
The higher the durability rating of a carpet, the more slowly it will lose its like-new appearance. Shaw measures the durability of its carpets on a scale from one to five, with five being the most durable. For a household with more than four adults, toddlers, children, teens, pets or one that entertains frequently, a durability rating of 3.5 and above for heavily used areas is recommended. For other households, a durability of 2.5 for most rooms will be adequate.
While Shaw uses the sliding scale, other manufacturers describe their carpet's durability by rating its performance in individual rooms - bedroom, living, dining and family rooms, hall, and steps. Still others rate their carpets by their suitability for light, normal, heavy, and extra-heavy foot traffic.
Besides helping homebuyers evaluate an individual builder's carpet offerings, all of these factors enable buyers to compare one builder's carpet offerings to another's. There is no industry-wide standard for disclosing this information, but many manufacturers voluntarily list it on the back of their samples. Manufacturers who do not will usually give out the figures when asked. If you don't see any rating on your builder's samples, ask the sales agent to track it down from the builder's carpet supplier.
Yet another characteristic that distinguishes different grades of carpet and can serve as a quick test is the backing. An inexpensive, low-end carpet has big squares on the back. Better grades will have small, tighter squares and the best quality carpets have a woven backing.
A carpet manufacturer's warranty is also telling, especially the mat-and-crush clause that attests to the carpet fibers' "memory retention" - their ability to retain their twist level and return to their original upright shape after being walked on. A 15-year mat and crush warranty is offered on more expensive carpeting, and top-quality carpets offer a 25-year warranty. A production homebuilder is unlikely to offer this, but you should try to get carpeting with at least a 10-year warranty. If the warranty is shorter than this, the carpet will show wear in a few years. A production builder's base-grade carpet will likely have only a five-year warranty, but check the upgrades.
Copyright 2001-2006 Katherine Salant. Distributed by Inman News Features
Created on 07/19/2008 03:37 PM by gerardo
Updated on 07/19/2008 04:23 PM by gerardo
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